At the heart of Chinatown, SUM LONDON made its New York Fashion Week debut. The brand staged a guerrilla-style runway show on Doyers Street, a curved and tucked-away lane steeped in Chinatown’s rich history. In the early 1900s, the street was nicknamed “The Bloody Angle,” a notorious hotspot for Chinese gang clashes. Today, at the crossroads of old and new, Doyers Street is home to Nom Wah Tea Parlor—NYC’s very first dim sum parlor—alongside swanky cocktail bars and bubble tea shops.
Right at the street’s entrance sits ArtBean, a chic, family-run coffee shop that served as the venue. The sidewalk became the runway, and the street itself the stage—turning a neighborhood corner into one of NYFW’s most distinctive moments. Pedestrians brushed past models mid-walk while locals paused to watch, and the result was a show that merged high fashion with the everyday Chinatown life.
The collection SUM LONDON unveiled in New York was titled “JIĀ YÓU | 加油,” a Chinese phrase meaning “keep going!” For the brand, “JIĀ YÓU” embodies the resilience and work ethic of Chinese immigrants.
“There was no better place than New York’s Chinatown, along the historic Doyers Street in Manhattan, to tell a story of migration,” said Margaret Sam, SUM LONDON’s designer and founder.
Though positioned as a luxury brand, SUM LONDON grounds its designs in functionality and durability, creating timeless classics that fuse “traditional Eastern silhouettes with contemporary utilitarian menswear.” As Margaret puts it, “We’re cultivating British-Asian heritage clothing for the Asian diaspora and a cross-cultural generation.”
Heritage in Fabric
In conversation, Margaret often returned to the idea of heritage, exploring the tension and balance between her Asian cultural roots and her Western upbringing. Born in an English seaside town with family ties to southern China, she channels this duality into SUM LONDON’s design language. It’s a fusion that feels incomplete without either influence. The results are pieces that range from sharp fisherman vests, to martial arts tracksuits, to a denim Qing Dynasty horse-faced skirt.
This piece, Margaret explains, reimagines “Qing Dynasty miners in the west, during the California gold rush,” paying tribute to the fact that one in five miners were Chinese immigrants.
The “JIĀ YÓU” collection also draws from sailor and naval workwear—a nod to the Chinese sailors who served Britain during World War II, yet remain largely forgotten by history. These influences appear through the collection’s sailor jeans, jackets, and knitwear. The sailor sweater, for instance, pairs blue and yellow to echo the classic indigo denim with gold stitching. In partnership with TENCEL™, SUM LONDON uses sustainably sourced wood-pulp fibers for an ultra-soft and eco-friendly finish.
Denim Made in China
When it comes to Asian denim, Japan often dominates the conversation, but China’s own denim heritage also deserves recognition. For this collection, SUM LONDON partnered with Advance Denim, the oldest denim mill in China and a pioneer in sustainable innovation. “Partnering with them was about highlighting the excellence of ‘Made in China,’” said Margaret. “Chinese craftsmanship and innovation are often overlooked in Western narratives.”
Indeed, “Made in China” remains a loaded phrase. Earlier this year, amid tariff tensions, Chinese factories revealed that many European luxury goods—including handbags from Hermès, Dior, and Michael Kors—are actually produced in China before being shipped to Europe for final assembly and labeling. Unsurprisingly, the revelation sparked debate online. The stereotype of low-quality mass production continues to overshadow China’s advanced manufacturing and centuries of traditional craftsmanship. But SUM LONDON’s work seeks to rewrite that narrative.
Looking Ahead
When asked about a standout moment from NYFW, Margaret recalled the show’s closing moments. “It was surreal to see our team and models bring the idea to life. We planned this across an ocean, from London to New York,” she said. “We made it possible through a shared mission and Asian pride, which felt truly empowering. That moment captured everything SUM LONDON stands for: community, culture, and carving our own space.”
As for what’s next, SUM LONDON’s gaze is set on Asia. “A Shanghai pop-up event would be meaningful, possibly even exploring my roots in Zhongshan, Guangzhou. Long-term, a flagship store,” said Margaret. But expansion will be deliberate and well-paced. “We are building a solid foundation as a British-Asian Heritage brand with aims for global cultural impact,” Margaret added. “This means really understanding and connecting with the key local communities in kindred melting pots.”
As SUM LONDON continues to carve out its own path between the East and the West through fashion and heritage, we can’t wait to see where its journey leads next!
Images courtesy of SUM LONDON
