Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2025–2026 featured 109 brands, including six prominent Chinese labels: Caroline Hú, Icicle, RUIbuilt, Ruohan, Shiatzy Chen, and Uma Wang. These designers showcased unique interpretations of Chinese identity through couture. With the event concluded, let’s explore these Chinese brands that made a global impact.
Caroline Hú
In September 2023, Caroline Hú debuted on Paris Fashion Week’s official program. The Shanghai- and NYC-based designer has since established a fully fledged label with a New York studio. Drawing from transcultural experiences, Hú’s F/W 2025–2026 collection, “Reverie (Daydream),” featured layered fabrics creating fluffy, dreamy textures. Exaggerated cutouts, balloon and cocoon silhouettes, delicate feathers, and semi-transparent garments evoked a romantic dreamscape. The collection included collaborative footwear with adidas Originals.
Icicle
Icicle, symbolized by the Chinese characters 之禾 (Zhi Hé), meaning “sprouting seed,” embodies the humility and wisdom of Chinese philosophy. Its PFW presentation used wool and cotton to evoke safety and home. Known for timeless, elegant designs, Icicle attracts middle-aged Chinese women, particularly entrepreneurs, earning the nickname “Chinese Max Mara.”
RUIbuilt
RUIbuilt, previously introduced, is renowned for hollow knitting, shells, and pearls symbolizing maternal connections, a focus of its latest collection. While internationally acclaimed, its avant-garde designs have sparked controversy in China. Designer Rui Zhou remains committed to expressing feminist values through innovative creations.
Ruohan
Established in 2021, Ruohan draws inspiration from multidisciplinary art. Its F/W 2025–2026 collection, influenced by the golden curves of musical instruments, was presented in a medieval courtyard runway. This distinctive setting underscored the brand’s commitment to artistic expression.
Shiatzy Chen
Shiatzy Chen, a Paris Fashion Week stalwart with over 30 appearances, highlighted Chinese Miao embroidery in its latest collection. The brand collaborates with Chinese celebrities, including Liu Yu, champion of “Produce Camp 2021” and an ethnic dancer, who recently became a brand ambassador. Shiatzy Chen’s heritage-inspired textures and details underscore the global appeal of ethnic-inspired fashion.
Uma Wang
Uma Wang, among the first selected for PFW 2025, presented her eighth collection. Inspired by Piero della Francesca’s “Santa Maria,” Wang used cashmere, mohair, and silk to create garments with sculptural volume, elegant fluidity, and abstract balance. Transitioning from earthy neutrals to deep blacks, the collection exuded elegance and depth. Post-PFW, Wang returned to Shanghai to launch a lipstick set with Totemist, maintaining her brand’s solemn, mysterious aesthetic.
Despite the limited number of Chinese brands at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2025–2026, their diverse expressions and cultural richness left a lasting impression. These designers not only showcased unique identities but also highlighted the growing influence of Chinese fashion globally. For more insights into Chinese designers shaping couture, stay tuned to our dedicated couture coverage.
Cover image via YouTube/FASHION.
